OPTIBIOCAT Insights - Identifying the potentials for the cosmetics industry
Dr. Marianna Ralli
OPTIBIOCAT is composed of interesting researchers and practitioners with different backgrounds. In several interviews, we want to introduce them, explain their role in the project and give insights into their work within the project.
Get to know the team behind OPTIBIOCAT – Dr. Marianna Ralli from KORRES
Please introduce yourself and your role in the project:
My name is Marianna Ralli and my role in Korres is to lead research projects in collaboration with other industries as well as Academia or Research Centres, and to discover opportunities in research findings worthy of commercialisation for the Beauty Industry. In this context, Korres is one of the industrial partners in the project Optibiocat and an end user. My role is to lead the work taking place regarding upscaling of the processes, and to ensure that some of the most promising compounds are taken further for testing as potential new active ingredients in cosmetic formulae.
How do you evaluate the potential of enzymes and bioactive compounds as industrial biocatalysts and ingredients for cosmetic applications?
Throughout the duration of the project, our task was to ensure that novel ingredients that stemmed from Optibiocat processes have a potential for use in the cosmetics industry. Esters are being used in cosmetics already for their skin conditioning and emollient properties, therefore the aim here was to find first of all green means of producing esters, but also to investigate novel properties for these compounds, which are relevant in Cosmetology. Bioassays designed to reveal antiaging properties were the tools used in order to evaluate the cosmetological potential of these compounds. Therefore, Optibiocat is focussing on cosmetics, as it addresses a number of industry and consumer-related demands, such as a green approach to manufacturing, novel ingredients with antiaging properties, and many more.
What were your most interesting findings?
Most compounds that we tested in biological assays in order to assess their antiaging properties had very interesting profiles in terms of their activity. We were very glad to see that the work of all partners led to results that can be used in Cosmetology and that the majority of antiaging tests were positive.
Do you see a market for these bioactive compounds in the cosmetic industry?
Although there is an abundance of active ingredients in the cosmetic industry, I think that ingredients that arise from consortia such as the one in Optibiocat have a competitive advantage: they are well thought out, with experts leading every step of the development process, they include a green manufacturing approach to satisfy the need for a more ecological approach to our cosmetics, and, of course, utilize ingredients that work and thus provide efficient products for the consumer.
Prof. Vincenza Faraco
Phone: +39 081674315/679895
University of Naples “Federico II”
Complesso Universitario Monte S. Angelo Via Cintia, 4
IT-80126 Napoli, Italy
Phone: +49 30 2649 2158
10785 Berlin, Germany